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Travel Guide - New Zealand
Posted: Thursday, April 19, 2007
By: Philip  McCluskey
New Zealand

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Though it sometimes plays a supporting role to its larger sibling Down Under, New Zealand's star is rising. Thanks in part to the overwhelming success of the Lord of the Rings trilogy (much of the filming was done here), the island nation is getting more attention than ever. And if you visit, you wonder what took so long.

The draw to New Zealand has always been its natural wonders--and more recently, its status as Ultimate Outdoor Playground. If you’re contemplating a trip, here are some things to keep in mind.

Why to go:

• The two islands of New Zealand (the North Island and South Island) are home to a veritable geologic all-star team: rarely, if ever, will you see so many different kinds of stunning landscapes in such a relatively small space (the country is about the size of Colorado). Ever walked on a glacier and in a rainforest on the same day? You can here.

• In a world where overpopulation is becoming an issue, it's good to be in a country where sheep outnumber people ten to one. If nothing else, you'll never want for sweaters.

• Queenstown, on the South Island, is the self-proclaimed Adventure Capital of the World. If there's a way to spike your adrenaline, you'll find it here. It's particularly famous for bungee jumping--being home to the world's first-ever commercial bungee jump (Kawarau Bridge, near Queenstown).

Milford Sound, also on the South Island, is one of the most picturesque places on Planet Earth. You can check out snow-capped Mitre Peak, surrounding waterfalls and subtropical palm trees from the comfort of a kayak—and if you’re lucky, see a pod of dolphins swim right alongside you.

• The people of New Zealand, affectionately known as Kiwis, are the friendly ambassadors of an easy-going and active national vibe. The indigenous people of New Zealand, the Maori, are still prevalent here—and their fascinating culture is celebrated throughout the country.

When to go:

Keep in mind that the seasons in the Southern Hemisphere are the opposite of what they are here. If you are looking to avoid crowds (except in ski-happy Queenstown), then you'll likely want to go between April and September. If you want more temperate weather and are willing to deal with the crowds that entails, think October to April.

How to go:

Flights are on the pricey side, but not above what you'd expect for a flight to the underbelly of the planet. Air New Zealand, Qantas and Air Tahiti Nui offer regular flights to major cities like Auckland and Christchurch, among many other airlines. Plan to stay as long as you can—given the long flight and significant time difference, you’ll need as much time as possible to truly get the most from your trip.

Once there, you can easily get from place to place over the road via car. There are also a number of tour bus operators (most notably Kiwi Experience and Magic) that offer comprehensive tour packages for modest budgets. If that's not for you (while convenient, these tours tend to spoon-feed you your experience) cheaper tickets and greater freedom can be had with a bus service like InterCity Coachlines.

Where to go:

In addition to the can't-miss highlights mentioned above, there are countless other options for places to check out while you're in New Zealand. Here are just a few:

Rotorua (North Island):
A unique center of geothermic activity, this town is home to geysers, moonscape-like features, a distinct sulfuric odor and lots of tourism. Nearby Lake Taupo is the largest lake in NZ, and a major stop for those seeking a leisurely sky-dive over the lake.

Tongariro Crossing (North Island): Consistently rated as one of the top one-day hikes in the world, Tongariro takes you through astounding scenery including volcanic craters and emerald lakes.

Marlborough Region (South Island):
This region is well known for its wine, particularly its Sauvignon Blanc. Stay in Nelson, Blenheim or Picton, and rent a car (or better yet, a bike) to take in some pastoral scenery and tasty vino. After you’ve had your fill of wine, you can make your way down the West Coast to the impressive Fox and Franz Joseph Glaciers.

Kaikoura (South Island): This town famous for whale-watching. In addition to the rugged beauty of the coast, you're more likely to spot a sperm whale here than just about anywhere else on the planet.

Abel Tasman Coastal Track (South Island): Walking amid a lush subtropical forest here, you look out over serpentine coastline and pristine beaches. This area is also great for sea kayaking and bird-watching. The eponymous Dutch explorer spent a good bit of time in this part of the world--nearby Tasmania is also named for him.

If you go:

Check out some rugby. The legendary New Zealand All-Blacks are world-famous for their domination on the pitch. If you see them play, you'll get to witness the imposing Maori war dance (called a 'haka') they do before every game.

The Maori culture is pervasive, and an essential part of the New Zealand’s national character. The national museum, Te Papa, in Wellington gives you a unique understanding of the history, art and heritage of these native people. For a sense of the modern-day Maori ethos, rent the movie Whale Rider.

There are lots of Australians here, too--so if you have any doubt about where someone you are talking to is from, ask. Kiwis can't stand being mistaken for Aussies.



Philip  McCluskey


Philip McCluskey is a freelance writer living in New York City. He can be reached at Philip (at) phreelancewriter.com.

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