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Montreal in late autumn may not be on the “must-see” list of most tour books, which extol the city’s summertime festival culture and pulsating nightlife. In October, the famed outdoor terrasses (cafes) have begun to recede from the sidewalks, and the temperatures prepare for the winter season as they plunge sharply at nightfall.
But for those looking for the true Montrealers’ art de vivre, autumn is a prime occasion. The throngs of tourists have returned to their southern homes, and Quebeckers once again reclaim the streets as they return from their summer holidays. The crisp fall air, a welcome reprieve from the stifling humidity of the Montreal summer, propels the crowds to horde the city streets, eager to enjoy the last of the “good” weather.
The spirit of Montreal continues well into the autumn months. Bars and clubs remain crowded even at the lowest of temperatures, while the city’s restaurateurs and jazz enthusiasts remain active despite the cold weather. Centuries of weathering extreme temperatures have left Montrealers with a hardiness, and a clear determination to enjoy the fruits of their city, that amaze visitors.
WHERE TO STAY
For a real taste of Canadian luxury, the Fairmont Queen Elizabeth (514-861-2296) is the epitome of Montreal style. Situated at the very heart of downtown, it has direct connections to Rue McGill and the famed “underground city” shopping complex. Fairmont has rooms that start at $279 (CAD), and includes access to three restaurants, ranging from casual to haute couture dining.
For the more frugal traveler, there is any number of familiar chains from which to choose. The Marriott Residence Inn, on Rue Peel, provides the best value for your money, as suites are expansive and come equipped with kitchenettes (2045 Peel Street; 514-982-6064; www.residenceinn-mtl.com). Offering free high-speed wireless Internet access and a free “hot and cold” breakfast buffet, the Residence Inn is a favorite hotel of most travelers. Four Points Sheraton (475 Sherbrooke Street West; 514-842-3961) and the Delta Montreal Hotel (475 President Kennedy Avenue; 514-286-1986; www.deltamontreal.com) are also located downtown and occasionally have discounted fares.
