In this restaurant, Sebastian does it all. I have never been there when he wasn't fussing over tables and making sure that everything was just right. His attention and care lend a personal touch that is priceless and rarely attained.
Sebastian believes in quality, organic ingredients. I once asked him why a favorite salmon dish of mine was taken off the menu. He said that the purveyor told him it was organic, yet he didn't feel he could guarantee it as such. Sebastian’s food is self-described as “French-Caribbean,” mainly bistro classics spiced up with fruits and spices, much like the food he grew up on (However, I doubt they have such yummy treats as Amy's bread and D'artagnan duck breast in the Islands). When you ask him about one of the dishes, you receive a patient and mouthwatering answer in French-infused English.
One of my favorite dishes, the escargots ($7), probably isn't the best choice for a date. The snails served out of the shell are intensely flavorful, a little spicy and filled with garlic. Instead, you should opt for the roasted pears with brie ($6), pheasant terrine ($8) or roasted avocado stuffed with a spinach mousse ($7), then have Sebastian open the dry Riesling from Germany or upstate New York you brought with you. Now she will think you’re starting to look better.
She plays it safe for the main course and orders the free-range organic chicken in a mango sauce ($11), but your uncontrolled enthusiasm for the place allows you to slip and order the decadent wild boar sausages served in a black cherry sauce ($11). You bring a Pinot Noir from Oregon and you are both covered. If you are bringing a wine of any notoriety, you might want to bring your own glasses; Ivo doesn't have stemware. With this flavorful and spicy food, a good German Pilsner or Belgian White beer would be good alternatives. Both dishes come with the standard couscous which is cooked competently but sides more appropriate to the individual dishes would be more preferable.
At this point you are charmed by the restaurant, she is charmed by you, and you both feel like you know Sebastian and love his food.
Desserts ($5) are a little less inspired, but still delicious. The coconut custard is fun play on an Italian panna cotta or a Spanish flan, and the apple cake is always served warm and flavorful. However, Sebastian relies heavily on seasonal ingredients so by the time you read this, everything could have changed. This is important to realize because even for a restaurant with such a small menu (only five appetizers, five entrees and three desserts), you might still find yourself going once a week.
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Joseph Campanale
Joseph Campanale is a sommelier at Babbo restaurant and the Food and Wine editor of Debonair. He is a Certified Wine Educator, a Certified Sommelier and is pursuing his master's degree in Food Studies at New York University. He is a native New Yorker and resides in the East Village.
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