Restaurant Review - Cube 63

“There is nothing more satisfying than a well-made teriyaki, and this stuff is really good,” a friend commented at a recent trip to Cube 63. Well-made classics plus a few welcomingly spicy innovations shape this tiny Lower East Side version of Nobu, without the price and pomp. It would be easy to overlook Cube 63 when walking down Clinton St. This curious little block has somehow become a “restaurant row,” lined with scores of enticing eateries.

When you locate the door (at 63 Clinton St.), you must walk to the back of the restaurant—not far with only 20 total seats—to check in for your reservation. Although this process is a bit annoying, it’s the perfect time to check out the table of cute blondes downing raw marine aphrodisiacs. More minimalist than mod, I wish this place would have a bit more décor; plain white walls have cold green accent lighting and steel chairs leave their mark on the back and butt. Yet the dark wood bar with its neon green backlighting is more fun and attractive, and it’s a great place to watch owner-chefs and brothers Ken and Ben Lau theatrically prepare your meal. While you sit, the service is almost a bit too laissez-faire, sometimes leaving you wishing for a water refill as you enjoy a palate-singeing spicy volcano roll ($10). But the real reasons to come here are for the super fresh fish and the bring-your-own-booze policy.

Cube 63 offers a wide array of beautifully plated sushi & sashimi at very modest prices.

I love the freedom of choice offered by BYOBs—you can have a lubricated night without banging the budget. Because restaurants routinely mark up wine to two to four times the retail price, you can translate your savings into more (or better) booze. I suggest better, but more works too. At Cube 63, some of the creative sushi rolls can be downright spicy. I suggest a white wine with crisp acidity and a bit of residual sweetness; German or New York State Riesling would be a fine choice. The bubbly, yeasty character in a wheat beer or a malt focused (like Brooklyn Lager) instead of a very bitter hoppy beer does wonders with Japanese.

On another trip, I brought a friend who is an ardent sushi-lover. He eats sushi almost daily and when we studied in Italy together, he knew all the best sushi joints throughout the country. We agreed that Cube’s sushi and sashimi are of top quality and plated with care and style. This place is a gem.


63 Clinton St.
212-228-6751
www.cube63.com
A new outpost has opened at 234 Court St. Brooklyn NY, 11201 (718) 243-2208

		Joseph Campanale Joseph Campanale is a sommelier at Babbo restaurant and the Food and Wine editor of Debonair. He is a Certified Wine Educator, a Certified Sommelier and is pursuing his master's degree in Food Studies at New York University. He is a native New Yorker and resides in the East Village.