Prps Jeans founder Donwan Harrell talks denim in his NY office
Donwan Harrell is a legend in denim. His company, Prps, creates the jeans worn by athletic demi-gods the likes of Tom Brady and David Beckham to style icons like Brad Pitt and the Rolling Stones. Yet you have not seen an advertisement for Prps –they don’t advertise. The celebrities that wear Prps have paid full price for their jeans, a sticker shocking $350 or more – they are not given away. But the “look” that Prps embodies can be had for “Forty dollars, some sandpaper, and a can of spray starch,” says Harrell.
We sat down with Donwan Harrell in his corporate office as eager students of his denimology. He had this to say:
D: Every time we peruse our favorite New York boutiques, we’re still taken aback by the cost of “premium” denim. With pairs of jeans reaching $500 or better, what justifies these prices and when did denim become a luxury item?
Harrell: Well, in the denim market, there is a sharp distinction between “premium” and “luxury.” My company [Prps] specializes in the latter. Most of the premium denim that you would see comes from L.A. Right away, this establishes a price difference from the mass market jeans that are made in China. We Americans like our 401Ks, dental plans, and overtime – so you are talking at least three times the expense for labor.
D: And your denim is made in Japan, correct?
Harrell: Yes. When I entered the denim market, I thought that the accepted standard fell short. My gut told me that there was a niche of people that desperately wanted a better product, and that’s the void I set out to fill. The best denim earns its status from a variety of factors. Perhaps the most important are the initial fabric and where it’s made. I take my core goods from Zimbabwe, and from then on; it’s a Japanese process. The Japanese are the most skilled denim workers in the world. Each pair of jeans is woven on a vintage loom, and the finish and washing process is all done in Japan. When all is said and done, the process is at least five times as costly.
D: And those factors create a better pair of jeans?
Harrell: The sum of all parts of the process along with the right methodology makes a better pair of jeans. The proper thread count and SPI (stitches per inch) are quantifiable means of making a better feeling pair of jeans. Any denim expert can know quality just by touch. My inspiration for Prps was drawn specifically from Big E Levi’s.
D: Big E?
Harrell: Yes, prior to WWII, Levi’s logo had a capital “E.” These jeans were better constructed, and indicative of quality (and worth a hefty sum if you can find a pair today).
D: That being said, are there many companies that simply try to mimic the “look” of premium and luxury denim.
Harrell: Oh yes, more than I can count.
D: Are there any less expensive alternatives that you can recommend?
Harrell: Sure, there’s a lot of little brands out of L.A. that are great for the money and use decent materials. J Brand goes for about $200 per pair. Earnest Sewn is also nice and sells for about the same. I also like Double RL.
D: Do you have any recommendations that are south of the $100 mark?
Harrell: Banana Republic. They do a good job of imitating my jeans (laughs). Really, anything that isn’t gaudy or over-the-top is ok in my book. Some of the jeans today are just too much with all of the crazy pocket details and so on. Go for something timeless.
D: One final question: what can the dead-broke aspiring fashionista do to try and emulate luxury denim.
Harrell: Buy a pair of Levi’s rinsed jeans for $39.99 and put some sandpaper to them in areas that become naturally distressed, such as pocket bags and around your wallet. Crinkle up the back knee and spray on a coat of starch to stiffen the wrinkles, then take some sandpaper to that as well. That should get you pretty close (smiles).
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