Fit
A big part of what you`re buying with a custom shirt is the right fit, but that might not mean what you think. Anyone can take measurements, it`s capturing the look and feel that you want which makes tailoring an art form. Thomas Pink starts by asking a few practical questions about your life. “How much time do you spend at a computer each day?” asked General Manager John Liguori.
John Liguori questions Eddie in the consultation room.
“What are you buying the shirt for?” The reason for such questions, Liguori explained, was to determine if the customer would be better served by a traditional fit (Black Label) or a slim fit shirt model. In the case of Eddie, who stands about six feet at roughly 165 lbs and who openly admits a penchant for European styling; the answer was simple – slim fit. “Excellent,” said Liguori, “let`s go to work.”
Measurements
Eddie was lead to a mirrored fitting room adjacent to the office and instructed to put on a pre-laundered test shirt. Now it was a game of measurements. Eddie, who had become accustomed to purchasing shirts with a 15 1/2” neck, was surprised to learn his neck size was actually 15 3/8” – an explanation to his current sagging neck syndrome.
Michael Bragg demonstrates the proper amount of shirt that should be seen below a coat sleeve. Approximately 1/4 inch.
Next, individual measurements were taken for each arm – taking into account the possibility of unequal lengths. Then, a measurement was taken across the shoulders to “ensure the ease of movement in daily use,” says Liguori. Additional measurements were taken around the wrist, hips, and arms. At the conclusion of the fitting session, it was determined that no single measurement deviated more than one inch from an off the rack shirt - but as they say, great fashion is “in the details.”
