Most American restaurants have a dirty little secret. Very little of the meat they sell as Kobe, is actually Kobe beef. Thankfully, an ounce of education can save you tons on your next pound of Kobe. We’ve got the story on this famous beef, the questions to ask when ordering, and a few budget-minded/juicy alternatives.
The Story of Kobe Beef
Real Kobe beef, like real French Champagne, only comes from one place in the world, Kobe, Japan. It is made according to strict traditions and costs enough to relegate it to special occasions and celebrations.
And, like Champagne wine laws, the Japanese are desperately trying to protect the integrity of the name, Kobe.
Deep within the Hyogo Prefecture (of which the city of Kobe is the Capital), the special Tajima-ushi breed of Wagyu cattle is reared according to strict Japanese tradition. Select breeding, isolation and daily massage make for some of the most pampered livestock in the world. These cattle are also some of the best fed – washing down their cud with buckets of shochu, a beer-like grain-based alcohol. This leisurely lifestyle creates succulent meat – Kobe beef can have almost 90% body fat.
American Wagyu – The Not Quite Kobe Beef
In 2001 tragedy struck the very few American epicures who were already savoring this rare treat. After a mad cow disease outbreak in Japan, the USDA closed all imports of Japanese beef. During this time the select American farmers who were able to smuggle in real Japanese cattle before the ban gained a virtual monopoly on the American Kobe scene. They followed the strict Japanese traditions and produced meat of an extraordinary quality for the nation’s top restaurants during a time when Kobe’s cache was at its highest. Five years later the ban was lifted, but many continued to use the American beef for its relative value over the Japanese version.
Now back to that dirty little secret. Many famed American restaurants, despite impeccable reputations and lavish prices, have mislabeled their menus – the beef touted (and sometimes priced) as Kobe is in fact, “Kobe-style.”
Wagyu is the breed of Japanese cattle and Kobe refers to the place and how it was raised. According to the famed butchers Lobels’ website: “all Kobe beef is Wagyu, but not all Wagyu beef is Kobe beef.” Wagyu refers to several breeds of beef cattle genetically predisposed to intense fat marbling. The meat from Wagyu cattle is known worldwide for high quality, flavor, tenderness and juiciness. American Wagyu can be of extremely high quality but it makes sense to ask the provenance of the beef – actual Kobe Beef should cost 2-3 times the price.
Despite the added fat and heart-attack induced cost, Wagyu may also be healthier than standard beef. Because of the Wagyu’s genetic predisposition and a special diet, it contains a higher percentage of omega 3 and omega-6 fatty acids. The increased marbling also improves the ratio of monounsaturated fats to saturated fats.
However, all Wagyu is not created the same. If you’re looking to cook at home and you can find Wagyu at $30 per pound, you are better off buying USDA Prime. This is one instance when you should go big or go home. In Japan, full-bred Kobe costs upwards of $300 per pound, but Lobels in Manhattan and other premier retailers sell the top quality American versions for around $100 per pound.
Ordering and Cooking Kobe
According to the owners of the Morgan Ranch, a boutique, “The best way to prepare Kobe is to cook it fast over a hot flame. The fat in Kobe melts at a lower temperature than regular beef.”
Reducing the meat to a shriveled lump of burnt coal and ordering it “well-done” should never be allowed for any meat, but Kobe suffers more than others. If you overcook the meat you risk having all of the fat melt away. Remember, the fat is what you pay for; it gives the meat the flavor and texture that has made it legendary.
Since Kobe started at a $200 steak and can now be found in a $13 taco, it no longer has the culinary counterculture cache. Many top chefs are switching to the less mainstream (who would have ever though Kobe would be mainstream?) Matsuzaka. Along with Kobe it was also banned between 2001 and 2006, but it never had the popularity of its bovine brethren. Some claim this high-fat-content beef is superior to Kobe.
Matsuzaka is a produced from virgin female Wagyu cows, in a serene area along the Miyagawa river not too far from Kobe. They are fed plenty of fodder, tofu lees and ground wheat. When they have no appetite, they are fed beer to stimulate their eating, and they also receive regular massages with straw brushes after being sprayed with shōchū and are taken for daily afternoon walks.
Another type of up and coming Wagyu is Mishima. It comes from a small island with a dwindling herd and is among the most highly prized beef in Japan. A select few chefs are using these meats for their high quality and the fact that Kobe is becoming ubiquitous. Next time you see Matsuzaka or Mishima on a list, casually drop, “ I used to eat Kobe all the time but these types of Wagyu are much more unique.”
Kobe beef can be found in a few variations that make it more approachable than a $200 steak. Although Kobe is best savored when cooked as simply as possible, so as not to mask its natural flavor, here are a few more approachable ways to get a taste in NY.
They offer a $62 Japanese Kobe version. Don’t bother with this 5 oz. patty. It’s good, but the flavors are covered by the condiments and it doesn’t warrant the price tag.
Kobe Hot Dog: Old Homestead ($$)
A $19, 11 ounce foot-long American Kobe hot dog is served in a custom-baked brioche bun and doused with truffle-spiked mustard. Although the meat’s flavor is once again muffled, this is seriously delicious and worth the price.
Kobe Beef Tacos: Dos Caminos ($)
The asada grilled (American) Kobe beef and caramelized onions, with cascabel chiles and guacamole ($13.50) suffers from the same problem as the others; the delicate Kobe taste does not shine through more flavorful ingredients. Still, it is tasty enough and the price is not inflated egregiously, so order away
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