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When I sit down to eat – err, gorge – on Thursday, I will be reminded that I am most thankful for the end of the Prohibition Era. The proper food-alcohol combination adds intense flavors and punctuates flavor nuances while eating, not to mention its power to loosen conversation with grating relatives. The only problem: many Thanksgiving foods can be too rich or sweet, complicating any effort of an accurate drink pairing.
Few annoyances can ruin a holiday as quickly and effectively as a contaminated palate with a side of Aunt Joan’s cheek-pinching.
And if it’s your turn to host, the dinner tab can run up quickly. Just remember that there’s no need to go big - just go festive. Here are a few tips for Turkey Day drinks that speakeasies would be proud to serve.
Go Bubbly
Nothing is more versatile and celebratory than a good sparkler. You might want to spring for a good Non-Vintage Grower Champagne. Most Champagne is made by purchasing grapes from many growers throughout the Champagne region, then vinifying the fruit. Grower bubblies are made by the same people who grow the grapes and represent better values over the big names — they are generally of a very high quality with their money poured into the wine, not advertising. Look for Terry Theise as the importer, or try Vilmart & Cie ($40) - as fine a reasonably priced Champagne out there.
Inexpensive Cava is delicious on its own or as a base for other drinks because of its somewhat neutral taste. Try Cristallino Brut NV ($9): drink it plain or spice it up with a bit of cranberry juice, or even a dash of spiced apple cider.
Be Patriotic
Domestic wine seems an obvious choice for this oh-so-American holiday. The only problem: the traditional choices of California Chardonnay and Zinfindel are such big, powerful wines that along with the heavy food can, can assault your palate. It’s rare to find a California Chardonnay under 14% alcohol and the Zins regularly reach 16%. Although this sounds like good fun, I’d rather be able to drink all night then tire out in the first round. If you insist on these wines try Stags Leap Napa Valley Chardonnay 2004 (about $30) or Ridge Three Valleys Zinfindel 2004 (about $25). These are excellent examples that won’t break the bank.
Or go for a New York State Riesling. With its great minerality, stone fruit character and crisp acidity Riesling is the ultimate food wine and the Finger Lakes region of New York is making somewhat of a specialty of it.
