Men’s Fashion Trends-Travel Essentials

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Traveling, especially for business, is one of the more egregious love/hate relationships in our lives. It’s great to get out of the office, especially if maybe you’re flying overseas to some place you’ve never been to before but read about in “Eat, Pray, Live” (I kid, I kid). That is until you land and the food is strange, you’re lost without knowing a lick of the local language, you go straight to endless meetings, never seeing the light of day, all while thinking you could just use a clean hotel room, a hamburger and an eccedrine (which is probably banned in that country). Or maybe you’ve just landed in Kansas City and maybe only the clean hotel part applies. Either way traveling can be rough, especially when you don’t have a warm sandy beach to look forward to. We travel quite a bit at the magazine and want to take this opportunity to try and alleviate some of that pain by introducing you to a host of products we see as indispensable when we’re away from home.

A cardigan for instance, is great for a cold plane or unexpected temperatures when you land, but also can be bunched up and used as a pillow. Driving shoes are also a good choice, they’re unbelievably comfortable for longer walks to and from the hotel but can also be slipped on and off pretty easily at security. See, told you we travel a lot.

Oh and don’t worry, we’ve complied things for any budget that way you may actually be able to afford that trip to the warm sandy beach instead of the Wichita Best Western next to the airport (which we’ve heard is great). Take a second and check out our travel essentials.

Travel Essentials (Top)

Bose Quiet Comfort 15 Headphones ($300)

Apple Macbook Air ($1500)

Apple iPod Nano ($150)

Leica X1 ($TBD)

Lanvin Cashmere Cardigan ($500)

Kiehls Facial Fuel Energizing Face Wash ($20)

Acqua di Parma Colonia Hair Shampoo ($35)

Dunhill Sidecar Navy Coat Wallet ($320)

Mulberry Small Clipper Holdall ($1,250)

Tod’s Gommino Driving Shoe ($450)

Travel Essentials (Bottom)

Asus Eee PC 1005HA ($400)

Muji Portable Cardboard Speakers ($40)

Ray-Ban Folding Wayfarer ($100)

C.O. Bigelow for Men Barber Hair and Body Wash ($10)

Design Go “The Tube” ($7)

J.Crew Cotton-cashmere Cardigan ($70)

Incase Dop Kit ($35)

Cole Haan Howland Penny Driving Shoe ($150)

Filson Medium Duffle Bag ($280)

Fall Fashion Trends 2009-Plaid

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Believe it or not there are few things that will layer better this fall than a plaid shirt. Strange right? Why would such an intense pattern be easy to match? Think about it – with a plaid shirt, you have a loud canvas to lay on some solid outerwear, as well as the fact that nothing looks better with a good pair of jeans (see: APC New Standards we featured in our fall essentials). Dress these up with a pair of khaki’s, dress ‘em down with a pair of APC’s, put a light layer over it and embrace the fact that it’s fall. Check out our picks for the best plaid’s this season, then see how to pull it all together.

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Engineered Garments Plaid Work Shirt

Fred Perry Authentic Stuart Shirt

Ralph Lauren Plaid Shirt

Gitman Bros. Vintage

Steven Alan Single Needle Red/Grey Plaid

APC Squares Shirt

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Ralph Lauren Plaid Shirt

Crew Wool-Cashmere Shawl Collar Cardigan

APC New Standard Jeans

Persol 2869s Sunglasses

Cole Haan Braided Leather Belt

Alden Indy Boots

Fashion Trends-Dressing for the Gym

For the Gym

Usually while talking about looking good and the gym its about what happens after months of working out and serious training. While looking good when you’re actually there may not be important to some, all we have to say is: what about that girl two treadmills over that you’ve been making casual eye contact with for months?

Thankfully, your Debonair editors have come up with a few things that won’t make you look like either the Lou Ferrigno gym-rat type or the guy with hyperhydrosis (see: excessive sweating) in the old college t-shirt (which may have fit ‘perfectly’ in his days of beer and pizza but maybe not so much now).

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New Balance Burnout Tee $40

Nike Therma-Fit Hoodie $50

Asics Core Microfiber Short $30

Nike Zoom Sparq S9 $100

Sigg Heritage Bottle $24

Clif Bar Builders Bar $2

Philosophy 3 in 1 Shampoo, Conditioner, Body Wash $20

Nike Ultimatum Duffel Bag $60

For the Run

Fall running can be a strange thing, some days it could be 65 F when you first get out and then suddenly turn colder than a Siberian Winter. That’s why as a runner you have to dress intelligently, layering so you can take off/put on when the temperature fluctuates as well as wearing things that keep you dry, so in the event of a siberian frost your sweat doesn’t turn your skin into a popcicle. Here are a few things that will keep you running this fall.

Workout Essentials

Brooks HVAC Long Sleeve $60

New Balance NBx Wind Blocker Tights $65

Puma Wind Jacket $55

Adidas ForMotion Training Socks $15 (2pk)

Nike AirMax+ 2009 $140

Brooks Vapor-Dry Glove $30

The New Bespoke-Astor and Black

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Classically there have been two main roads to acquiring a suit: an off the rack, department store jacket and pants that may fit well enough with a few alterations, but certainly nothing special. There is then the ultimate luxury in men’s clothing, the fully custom bespoke suit from one of Savile Row’s ancient establishments. Made to exacting standards and more often than not by a man older than your grandfather, it’s a suit that will last a lifetime, never mind may take that long to pay off.

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There’s a new way however, one that doesn’t mean settling for less for the discerning man. A new wave of American suit makers are offering fully custom, made to measure suits that have the custom fit and fabric of a Savile Row number but for a fraction of the price. This doesn’t mean they’re cheap, these are still made from Scabal cashmere, the same fabric used by Brioni in it’s own suits and have many of the same features such as functioning button-holes (a now lost detail in all but high end suits).

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One of the most promising of this new wave of suit makers however is Astor and Black, the brainchild of 25-year-old David Schottenstein. While studying abroad in Italy, Schottenstein became fascinated by the craftsmanship of fine Italian suits and noticed the lack of similar offerings in the United States. Soon after returning he opened the first Astor and Black office in his native Columbus, Ohio and since then the company has grown steadily.

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They have outposts in almost every major American city and have started expanding internationally this year. What this means is that someone will be at your office or home for the first consultation and measurements and then for every subsequent fitting. Your Astor and Black representative will walk you through the multitude of options for your suit and even help you pick out matching shirts and ties to take the guesswork out of the morning rush. After every aspect of your suit is decided and fittings are completed, the finished product will arrive in about a month, not too bad for something a bit less offensive to your bottom line than a $10,000 trip to London.

http://www.astorandblack.com/

7 Men’s Fall Fashion Essentials

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This fall is all about refined basics recalling the cool American style of Paul Newman, Steve McQueen and James Dean. While many of the pieces this fall will have been constructed using the same methods and materials as the clothing they are inspired by, the fit is certainly updated for the modern man.

These 7 essentials your debonair editors have picked highlight the best of the season and can be worn all together or with just about anything else in your wardrobe. This season encourages you to use your clothing, to break it in and wear it out, to make it your own and wear it for a lifetime. Each of these pieces are made to last and even more, to channel that effortless style of the classic American man.

7 Fall Essentials2

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This burgundy check button-down shirt from Steven Alan is an integral part of any fall wardrobe and a must have for layering under sweaters, jackets and yes, Patagonia down vests. Roll up the sleeves on those odd Indian Summer days and be comforted that the Steven Alan craftsmanship will ensure years of use. ($180.00)

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A good pair of denim is essential no matter what season, but perhaps none more important than in the fall when nights get chilly and you’re forced to trade in the shorts. These APC New Standards are incredibly popular for a reason: they’re made with heavy raw denim straight off the loom, so it’s you doing the breaking in and not some guy wielding a sandblaster at the factory in Taiwan. Get ‘em and you’ll thank us next Spring when you have a pair of perfectly broken in jeans. ($150.00)

Patagonia Down Sweater Vest Olive $150-2

Yvon Chouinard started Patagonia in 1970 after realizing he could make outdoor equipment lighter, warmer and more durable than the other guys. Since the day it began, Patagonia has been doing just that and this classic down vest is testament to the years of research and development (mostly in places you and I have never even heard of, nor would ever want to visit, think: the top of Anna Purna). The vest is a perfect layering piece to throw over a long sleeve shirt, ensuring your innards stay warm all day. What if the temperature suddenly climbs above 60F? Well this little guy packs into it’s on pocket, small enough to stash in your girlfriend’s purse. ($150.00)

Randolph Engineering Sportsman $1002Randolph Engineering has been the official sunglass supplier to the military for decades, meaning every Navy flyboy before and after Maverick have worn a pair. We figure, if these are good enough for the guys the government trusts with $30 million planes, they’re probably good enough for us. ($100.00)

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“The G Series comes full circle” is what Canon says about its brand new G11. All we think is this could be the best camera since, well, the G10. Canon has installed its new DIGIC 4 image processor, the same they use in their much larger (and more expensive) DSLR models, which for everyone but the professional photographer means a must buy for taking on those fall weekend excursions upstate. Foliage anyone? ($500.00)

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When Victorinox wanted to celebrate the 125th anniversary of the Swiss Army knife, they decided to go back to the original designs made way back in 1870 by Karl Elsener. The knife isn’t quite the multi-tool wonder like it’s sibling the SwissChamp, but has everything you would need for everyday life, be it at the office or on a day hike. We often wonder however about things like the SwissChamp, since when did you need a bag to carry your pocketknife? ($450.00)

Alden Indy Boot $395-2

Alden boots are about as classic American as you can get, they’re sturdy, comfortable and durable enough for every day use in the city (because lets face it, the city can take a much greater toll on your shoes than any trail in the woods). They’re made with welted leather soles and an all natural leather upper that over time will conform to your feet, plus you can take comfort in the fact that despite the economy, these boots are still made in the same factory in Massachusetts. ($395.00)

Summer Hair Tips for Men

We recently sat down with Sarah Rappolt, senior stylist at Bumble and Bumble’s Downtown NYC Salon to ask her a few questions about how guys should take care of their hair. She gave us a few special tips for keeping your quaff cool on hot summer days and for that crucial transition into a night out without looking like you’ve just returned from 3 months in the jungle. And no, none of them include using your girlfriends shampoo.

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How often should a man, with reasonably normal thickness/texture hair, shampoo his hair? during the summer? During the winter?

I recommend that men do NOT wash their hair everyday. Often I feel like men tend to over-cleanse, which removes natural oils that actually benefit the hair and scalp by preventing dryness and enhancing texture. Twice to three times per week is a good schedule for the summer, and you can get away with even less in the winter because there’s less chance for sweat/oil to build up. If you’ve gone to the gym and you’re feeling like you want to wash more than that, just rinse hair with water instead.

Is there anything special a guy should do to take care of his hair during the summer? Winter?

I’d say the rules are pretty much the same for both seasons.

Since most working guys won’t get a chance to go much this summer, is there any way a guy can get that “just came back from the beach” hair? The sort of coarse, starchy but light hair feeling?

Again, not washing your hair too often comes into play here because when you skip washing, your true texture and wave have a chance to develop. Cuts are getting longer – not so barbered and short – so there’s more to work with. I love Bumble and bumble Surf Spray for creating back from the beach hair. Just spray into dry hair and work in with your fingers for great naturally wavy texture.

What are your favorite styling products for men?

Bumble and bumble Sumotech is a fantastic wax with a matte texture (not a shiny one like most waxes) that I love because it doesn’t look so groomed but it keeps hair in place with a natural finish. Bb. Gel is a wonderful new product that isn’t flakey like gels of the past, so you can apply it to damp hair, and brush it out for long lasting, flexible hold.  For longer, wavier, natural looking locks, I use Bumble and bumble Grooming Creme. Applied to damp hair, it works to enhance natural texture and offers a healthy, movable finish.

What can a guy do to avoid the greasy, gel look when styling their hair?

To avoid the greasy gel look when styling hair, start by rinsing (not washing) every day. If you’re hair is super oily, try Bumble and bumble Hair Powder. Apply it to dry hair at the roots, wait for it to dry, and shake it out with your fingers to cut oil and get a matte finish.

Does a guy need to condition? How often?

Guys don’t really need to condition unless their hair texture is extremely dry.

Besides the old ‘head and shoulders’, is there any practical way to reduce dandruff?

Dandruff is buildup of oil in the scalp, so regulating oil is really the key. If you have super oily skin, you’re not going to wash your face 3 times per day because you’ll throw the balance off. The same goes for the scalp – don’t over-cleanse.

What is the ideal summer hair cut for men? Not counting the buzz cut of course

I always say that fads don’t work for everyone. Find a cut that works for you and do it. Right now, I’m liking hair that’s longer on top and shorter on the sides. I’m also seeing a lot more embracing of natural texture.

Transitioning from a warm, sometimes sweaty day at work to a night out in the city, is there a way a guy can ‘freshen’ up his hair without taking a shower?

I try to remind guys not to freak out about their hair because to me right now, it looks good a little rough around the edges. Think Clive Owen – he looks great with a little more hair that’s manly yet polished. If you feel like your hair is getting super oily, apply a little Bumble and bumble Hair Powder at the roots and shake it out to get back to a matte texture.

Most important aspect of mens hair care, ie what does a man absolutely need to do on a consistent basis to maintain color, shine and volume in their hair?

Men need to be more comfortable using products! I think more and more focus on skin care and groomed but present facial hair is looking great on guys, and the hair should be another way to express yourself. Start being open to using styling products to achieve a given look. Next time you’re in the salon, don’t be afraid to ask your stylist for step by step instructions and product recommendations so you can recreate that look once you leave the salon.

In The Know with Billykirk.

WHAT. Each week we interview rising stars in the world of fashion, design, food and culture about how they live their life and the places and things they love.

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WHO. Billykirk is designing some of the highest quality men’s accessories and leather goods out there. The company was founded by brothers Kirk and Chris Bray in Santa Monica in 1998 after the two became obsessed with a vintage leather watch band they saw in a pawn shop. Today, the brothers have since moved to Brooklyn, and are starting to raise eyebrows in the fashion and design community for their handcrafted work.

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Q. What are you wearing today?

A. Chris: A Bon Iver t-shirt, Unis khaki trousers, and Varvatos for Jack Purcell tennis shoes.
Kirk: A super soft oxford from Muji, APC jeans and my beat up Redwing chukkas. Oh, and my newly acquired Workers denim apron c/o Andy at Reference Library.

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Q. Aside from your own company of course, what brands are you excited about right now?
A. Chris: APC, Mister Freedom, Workers, Rogues Gallery, Unis, S.N.S Herning, which is a Danish company that specializes in knitwear, Barbour, Hickey, Billy Reid, Norsea Industries, Margiela, Freemans Sporting Club, the list could go on and on.
Kirk: Some of my favorites out there right now are Engineered Garments, Our Legacy, Steven Alan, Fjallraven, which is a Swedish camping and outerwear company, Wood Wood, Oliver Spencer and Rachel Comey for shoes.

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Q. What’s your favorite place to eat in the city?
A. Chris: Macao Trading Co. They serve interesting, tasty dishes there and the staff is always very attentive and friendly. Downstairs they’ve got an intimate lounge with good music and another bar.

Kirk: Raoul’s, because its old school New York and you can sit at the bar and have a gin and tonic and split an incredible steak au poivre. Preferably with a nice looking lady.

Q. How does the design process happen at Billykirk – where do you get your inspiration?
A. Chris: Sometimes it can just be from a piece of hardware, like a buckle we happen to find, and over time an entire design will evolve around it. Most of the time though we design out of necessity; if one of us gets a new digital camera or laptop we start designing something to house it. It’s a habit. We also get a lot of ideas from vintage military, equestrian gear, WGSN, EBay, swap meets, that sort of thing.

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Q. Even though you’ve been around for years it seems like the word has really gotten out over the past 12 months. Given the recent momentum, what’s next for the both of you?
A. Chris: We’ve got upcoming collaborations with Opening Ceremony, J. Crew, Freeman’s Sporting Club, Hollander & Lexer, Freeman Transport, which is a bike maker in Montana, and a project with a shoe company that we can’t talk about just yet, but will announce soon.

Kirk: Expanding the line and continue to look at the prospects of opening a store.

Chris: All the incredible collaborations we’re currently working on are extremely humbling. Seeing “Billykirk for J. Crew” still seems a bit crazy to us. These companies want to work with us and feel a certain connection to our aesthetic and design ideas, which is flattering.

Q. You’ve already made a stand on how your designs are produced and sourced, but overall, how do you want people to think of Billykirk?
A. Kirk: I think both Chris and I want to be known for making well design goods that are built to last.

Chris: Definitely – I think all along we’ve tried to design and produce items we’ll feel proud to own 20 years from now. Not only in design and function, but also how it wears in. For instance, we source our leather from top quality domestic hides that are primarily used in the horse tack industry, you know, the leather used for saddles, headgear, and other equipment that has to take a beating. So we knew from the start that the leather, if treated right, would be around for a long, long time.


WHERE. Unis, Steven Alan, 10over6,
Hollander & Lexer, Odin, Jake, Blackbird, Barney’s, Bloomingdale’s,
Takashimaya
, and others. For a full list see Billykirk’s Stocklist.