Luxuries Exposed – Bedding

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Luxuries Exposed: Elite Sheets

Of the many misnomers in bedding, thread count may be the most egregious. Textile companies can sew two or more layers of sheets together to multiply the thread count, or even count the number of fibers twisted together to form the yarn itself. Neither method makes for a softer sheet, and might even make you more uncomfortable. “The higher the thread count, the hotter the sheet” explains Gail Secular, owner of high end bedding boutique Archipelago. If you need the comfort only thermal insulation can provide, then by all means, go for the thousand thread count. The most expensive sheets at Secular’s Manhattan showroom however have only 400 threads a square inch but are woven from sumptuous Egyptian cotton in Italy which makes them at once softer and more breathable than the standard issue.

Since great sheets are easy to find at Archipelago, but the best options soar to over $800 a set, Debonair took a trip to the local Bed Bath & Beyond with a few female compatriots to see if there was anything comparable to boutique quality at a better price. In all we tried over fifteen varieties of the most available and affordable brands to find you the pick of the litter no matter how close you live to Madison Avenue. [Read more...]

Men’s Waterproof-Watches vs. Water-Resistant Watches

waterproofDear Debonair,
What is the difference between water-resistant and waterproof watches?

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Water-Resistant vs. Waterproof: No watch is completely waterproof forever, so the Federal Trade Commission requires watchmakers say water-resistant instead. It’s a good thing, but read the fine print and you’ll see that even splashing around or taking a shower can expose a watch to pressure you’d find standing still at 50 meters down. Not only that, but watch seals made of materials like rubber or Teflon deteriorate over time and are easily corroded by hot water, soap, or the salt in ocean water. If you’re using a watch for timing dives make sure to get something rated to well over 300 meters and have it inspected yearly.

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Did You Know? You might be surprised to know how many watches out there are running on the exact same mechanics. Since 1974, the Swiss manufacturer Valjoux has been selling one particularly popular movement known as the Valjoux ETA 7750 to brands like IWC, Breitling, Tag Heuer, Omega, Panerai, Longines, and yes, U-Boat. Incredibly, this mass produced movement stuffs more than 100 individually cast pieces into a disc less than 8mm thick. Check the brilliant links below for more information:

  • Photo-essay on the inner workings of the Valjoux ETA 7750 on TimeZone [Timezone]
  • Watch this superb video of a Swiss Horologer constructing the Valjoux ETA 7750 movement from start to finish. [Alliance Horlogere]
  • View ETA’s official site flash animation on how to disassemble and tune the 7750 Movement. [ETA]

Best of New York City-Dry Cleaners

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Picture taken at Chris French Cleaners.

In selecting the best dry cleaners, we took a number of things into consideration. First, is there a plant on the premises? Many cleaners simply take orders and outsource the actual cleaning to an offsite location, which often leads to delays, poor service, or worst of all, a lost garment. Second, we wanted our cleaners to be professionally certified, meaning they’ve been trained in fabric care and stain removal chemistry, and are knowledgeable about how to responsibly dispose of the chemicals involved in the cleaning process.

We also looked for cleaners that were able to do the so-called “wet cleaning” process, a dry cleaning method that does not use chemical solvents and is more effective on certain fabrics and stain removal. Finally, we sought out cleaners that followed basic protective practices, such as covering buttons, packing arms with paper so garments hold their shape, and hand finishing pressed clothing.

The following dry cleaning establishments exceeded our expectations, and we recommend them without reserve.

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Kobe Beef – Did You Pay For Fake Kobe Beef?

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Most American restaurants have a dirty little secret. Very little of the meat they sell as Kobe, is actually Kobe beef. Thankfully, an ounce of education can save you tons on your next pound of Kobe. We’ve got the story on this famous beef, the questions to ask when ordering, and a few budget-minded/juicy alternatives.

The Story of Kobe Beef

Real Kobe beef, like real French Champagne, only comes from one place in the world, Kobe, Japan. It is made according to strict traditions and costs enough to relegate it to special occasions and celebrations.
And, like Champagne wine laws, the Japanese are desperately trying to protect the integrity of the name, Kobe.

Deep within the Hyogo Prefecture (of which the city of Kobe is the Capital), the special Tajima-ushi breed of Wagyu cattle is reared according to strict Japanese tradition. Select breeding, isolation and daily massage make for some of the most pampered livestock in the world. These cattle are also some of the best fed – washing down their cud with buckets of shochu, a beer-like grain-based alcohol. This leisurely lifestyle creates succulent meat – Kobe beef can have almost 90% body fat.

American Wagyu – The Not Quite Kobe Beef

In 2001 tragedy struck the very few American epicures who were already savoring this rare treat. After a mad cow disease outbreak in Japan, the USDA closed all imports of Japanese beef. During this time the select American farmers who were able to smuggle in real Japanese cattle before the ban gained a virtual monopoly on the American Kobe scene. They followed the strict Japanese traditions and produced meat of an extraordinary quality for the nation’s top restaurants during a time when Kobe’s cache was at its highest. Five years later the ban was lifted, but many continued to use the American beef for its relative value over the Japanese version.

Now back to that dirty little secret. Many famed American restaurants, despite impeccable reputations and lavish prices, have mislabeled their menus – the beef touted (and sometimes priced) as Kobe is in fact, “Kobe-style.”

Wagyu is the breed of Japanese cattle and Kobe refers to the place and how it was raised. According to the famed butchers Lobels’ website: “all Kobe beef is Wagyu, but not all Wagyu beef is Kobe beef.” Wagyu refers to several breeds of beef cattle genetically predisposed to intense fat marbling. The meat from Wagyu cattle is known worldwide for high quality, flavor, tenderness and juiciness. American Wagyu can be of extremely high quality but it makes sense to ask the provenance of the beef – actual Kobe Beef should cost 2-3 times the price.

Despite the added fat and heart-attack induced cost, Wagyu may also be healthier than standard beef. Because of the Wagyu’s genetic predisposition and a special diet, it contains a higher percentage of omega 3 and omega-6 fatty acids. The increased marbling also improves the ratio of monounsaturated fats to saturated fats.

However, all Wagyu is not created the same. If you’re looking to cook at home and you can find Wagyu at $30 per pound, you are better off buying USDA Prime. This is one instance when you should go big or go home. In Japan, full-bred Kobe costs upwards of $300 per pound, but Lobels in Manhattan and other premier retailers sell the top quality American versions for around $100 per pound.

Ordering and Cooking Kobe

According to the owners of the Morgan Ranch, a boutique, “The best way to prepare Kobe is to cook it fast over a hot flame. The fat in Kobe melts at a lower temperature than regular beef.”

Reducing the meat to a shriveled lump of burnt coal and ordering it “well-done” should never be allowed for any meat, but Kobe suffers more than others. If you overcook the meat you risk having all of the fat melt away. Remember, the fat is what you pay for; it gives the meat the flavor and texture that has made it legendary.

The Next Kobe

Since Kobe started at a $200 steak and can now be found in a $13 taco, it no longer has the culinary counterculture cache. Many top chefs are switching to the less mainstream (who would have ever though Kobe would be mainstream?) Matsuzaka. Along with Kobe it was also banned between 2001 and 2006, but it never had the popularity of its bovine brethren. Some claim this high-fat-content beef is superior to Kobe.

Matsuzaka is a produced from virgin female Wagyu cows, in a serene area along the Miyagawa river not too far from Kobe. They are fed plenty of fodder, tofu lees and ground wheat. When they have no appetite, they are fed beer to stimulate their eating, and they also receive regular massages with straw brushes after being sprayed with shōchū and are taken for daily afternoon walks.

Another type of up and coming Wagyu is Mishima. It comes from a small island with a dwindling herd and is among the most highly prized beef in Japan. A select few chefs are using these meats for their high quality and the fact that Kobe is becoming ubiquitous. Next time you see Matsuzaka or Mishima on a list, casually drop, “ I used to eat Kobe all the time but these types of Wagyu are much more unique.”

Kobe in New York City

Kobe beef can be found in a few variations that make it more approachable than a $200 steak. Although Kobe is best savored when cooked as simply as possible, so as not to mask its natural flavor, here are a few more approachable ways to get a taste in NY.

Kobe Burger: BLT Burger ($$$)

They offer a $62 Japanese Kobe version. Don’t bother with this 5 oz. patty. It’s good, but the flavors are covered by the condiments and it doesn’t warrant the price tag.

Kobe Hot Dog: Old Homestead ($$)

A $19, 11 ounce foot-long American Kobe hot dog is served in a custom-baked brioche bun and doused with truffle-spiked mustard. Although the meat’s flavor is once again muffled, this is seriously delicious and worth the price.

Kobe Beef Tacos: Dos Caminos ($)

The asada grilled (American) Kobe beef and caramelized onions, with cascabel chiles and guacamole ($13.50) suffers from the same problem as the others; the delicate Kobe taste does not shine through more flavorful ingredients. Still, it is tasty enough and the price is not inflated egregiously, so order away

Celebrity Chef Restaurants On Any Budget

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Forking out for a meal at a famous restaurant can be a thrill, but at what cost?  These days, you could just as well pay your rent as order a tasting menu.  Fortunately, those enterprising celebrity chefs are hard at work building restaurants to satisfy crowds on any budget.

Click to see Debonair’s picks for the best celebrity chef-owned restaurants on a budget – we’ve even totaled a sample bill that includes dinner for two, a decent bottle of wine, tax, and tip!

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Best Of. NYC Cobblers

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Patronize the stores below and your shoes will be the longest-living items in your closet. In selecting the best cobblers, we looked for a shop that was able to resuscitate wafer thin soles, strip away years of polish to clean our favorite pair of Aldens, and help us safely stretch out an uncomfortable new purchase. We wanted craftsmen that were as comfortable working on Goodyear welts as Norwegian welts, proficient in leathers from suede to crocodile skin, and able to maintain the shape of the last regardless of the repair.

The following stores more than met our standards and are in fact so good at what they do, they regularly receive work from discerning clients and luxury boutiques located all over the country.

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Best Of. NYC Watch Repair

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Watch maintenance and repair is a remarkably complex and diverse field. To cover all of your potential needs, we sought out the most veteran shops in the city, each with its own particular specialty. All of the stores service the timepieces on the premises and do not outsource repair work overseas. We would trust any of the craftsmen below with our grandfather’s WWII wristwatch or any other family heirloom in need of refurbishment, without fear of damage, and you should too. If you are interested in purchasing or selling a distinctive watch, these shops also offer some of the more interesting pieces in the city—often vintage, always impeccably serviced.

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Best Of. NYC Shirtmakers

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A well-made shirt is the foundation of a professional look, and the most affordable foray you can make into bespoke clothing. We wanted a list of shirt-makers that offered a range of prices, fabrics, and customization services, and of course, the highest degree of skill in crafting the proper fit. We wanted unlimited choices in making the shirt our own, such as the ability to change the collars, cuffs, button materials, placket styles, and pleat and yoke styles. Finally, we required that all the shirt-makers on our list produce their garments in New York City.

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Best Of. NYC Tailors

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When we set out to select the best tailors in the New York City, we were looking for true craftsmen and not just someone to hem our pants. We wanted tailors who were not only deeply knowledgeable about their work, but also interested in building lasting relationships with their clients. These shops will not only turn away work which they feel cannot be done properly, they are eager to advise how to get the best fit from your current wardrobe. We looked for shops that were both experts in alterations and masters at making custom clothing. To make our list, tailors needed to be able to educate us on how to shop, store, and care for clothes.

The following are places which provide all this and more—think of them as partners in crafting a better personal and professional image.

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